Thalassa Journal

As you know, Tallship Thalassa offers a number of themed cruises along the Scottish coastline, including sailing/walking cruises. On these sailing/walking holidays we explore Scotland by ship and on foot. Our experienced Scotland/walking guide Gerard Spaans was on board again this year to show our guests the beautiful walking routes and, if required, to guide them in discovering all the beauty that Scotland has to offer.

To give you an idea of what such a walking tour is like, we thought it would be nice to send you a personal report from Gerard, in which he gives his usual enthusiastic account of Scotland by land and by sea.

Travel report by Gerard Spaans, walking and whisky guide (15-22 June 2024)

An impression of a walking tour aboard the tall ship Thalassa

We decided to travel to Oban on the day of the Thalassa's departure. Fortunately, the journey went smoothly and we arrived in Oban on time. Arriving by train we immediately saw the quay was full. The sturdy sailing ship is anchored across the harbour. Not to worry, a text from the crew tells us that we will be met at the entrance to the marina, a short walk from the station. As a walking guide this gave me an immediate opportunity to get to know the passengers who were also waiting there. The ship was relatively well booked with a maximum of 28 guests, on this trip we went sailing with 22.

"Walking guide?" they asked. Yes, absolutely, every day there is a new plan and if you want I can walk with you. It was a nice surprise for some of them.

Over the past few months I had been preparing the route. Each day there will be one or more walks to choose from. Don't want to join me for a day? No worries, just stay on board or walk around the village if you can.

After embarking, I always check with the captain to see if the plans are still on track. This time it was quite a surprise as the wind was exactly wrong for the plan we had prepared. The wind would only change during the week. Fortunately, I know the area quite well and immediately saw new opportunities for nice walks. We agreed that every two days we would see where we were going.

After bunkering water, we set sail on Saturday evening and headed for Tobermory on the Isle of Mull. We arrived after midnight. That meant we could go for our first walks right after breakfast. Every day, right after dinner, I give the guests an overview of the day's activities. This gives everyone time to prepare and make choices if necessary. In the immediate vicinity of Tobermory there are two walks of about 7km each.

One to the lighthouse, the other through Aros Park. The walk to the lighthouse is a fine coastal walk. On the way back, there were some challenges due to the wet spell that preceded this week. The other walk crosses a nature reserve and then comes out to a small lake which we walked around before heading back. One pair of walkers even had time to walk both walks. We blew out after the route through Aros Park at The Gallery, a nice venue in the old church along the harbour. We enjoyed the good coffee and deliciously baked Victoria cake.

On arrival on board, we used lunch and headed for Tiree.

We arrived at Tiree in the early evening and anchored in the bay in front of Kirkapol. The name already masks the Norwegian history of these islands. The next day, we walked the long route past the Ringing Stone and Dùn Mor broch (very old shelter). With the approach route, this hike is almost 15km long and in the second half we had to take the pass. Then we got back in time to catch the next island with the crossing.

The walk on Tiree is mostly very flat. This characterises this island. The wind rages over it day after day and there is no shelter. As always in Scotland rain lurks, but we enjoyed a dry walk.
The surface consisted of tarmac, peat and firm grassland. Halfway through we met up with group members going in the opposite direction, so we had a good exchange about the characteristics of the route.

On this day, as on the previous days, we had beautiful sailing weather. The wind was good and we usually get 6 to 7 knots. Quite nice on a boat like this.

We moored in Scalasaig Bay off the island of Colonsay. Again nicely sheltered. I decided to give a first whisky nosing & tasting to the guests who were in favour of it during which I would also go into the principles of whisky making.

The next day's walk was the Scalasaig Explorer. A walk of over 8km and a high bog factor. After the forest walks of Tobermory and the open plains of Tiree, this was a very different walk. Lots of gradients, paths through the forest ferns, past an abandoned fishing village and through uncharted territory. I know this walk well and yet every turn offers another surprising view. There are two further climbs for the more ambitious. From Cnoc Na Faire Beag and Bein Nan Gudairean there are fantastic views over much of the island and across to other islands such as Jura and Islay. As the walk started directly from the pier, we were able to make the crossing to Islay in time.
Arriving on the island, we were greeted by the Rubh'a'Mhail (Rhuvaal) lighthouse and sailed past the Bunnahabhain, Ardnahoe and Caol Ila whisky distilleries. Unfortunately, when we tried to dock at Port Askaig, a large workboat was ahead of us. Not to worry, we sailed back upstream to Bunnahabhain Bay.

The next day the wind would turn and we were able to sail all the way back. But before we left we had the choice of a tour of the Bunnahabhain Whisky Distillery (space is limited), the Ardnahoe Whisky Distillery or the beautiful coastal walk through the fields and forest ferns to Rhuvaal Lighthouse. Everyone found their own way. With a bit of small talk, I arranged a tour for a large group at Ardnahoe. There we saw in practice what I had talked about in my lectures earlier in the week. And it also provided another starting point for another whisky nosing & tasting later in the week, where we could delve a little deeper into whisky making. Even the sun was with us on the walk to and from the distillery.

The wind keeps its word. That afternoon, we sailed with a nice wind to the island of Iona, just off the coast of Mull. Since the strait between Mull and Iona offers no shelter with this wind, we sailed around Iona to Market Bay. We spent the night there and from there we could sail smoothly to Iona the next day. There is something magical about the island of Iona. Besides two beautiful walks, it also offers a 13th-century Benedictine abbey. The North End walk is 7½km and relatively easy. It follows tarmac roads and grassland through the village, past the abbey to the north beach. The eventual climb to Dun Ì is a little more challenging, but from the hill you overlook the whole island.

The walk from South End is 8½km and firmer. Up to the golf course, you walk on tarmac. After that, the walk changes to marshland. We set off on time for Ardnamurchan, making an unscheduled visit to Staffa Island on the way. This island is known for two highlights of cruising in the area: puffins and the basalt formations around Fingal's Cave. We were able to moor the tender close to Fingal's Cave and a logistical masterstroke allowed everyone to make a short visit to the island. On our way to Staffa we were joined by at least 5 dolphins hunting a school of fish. This was truly impressive.

The day couldn't have gone wrong and ended in the evening with more whisky nosing & tasting and music. We sang chanties together and listened to others sing and play guitar.

The final walk was a short one to cool down. Near Glenmore Bay is the Glenborrodale RSPB bird sanctuary. You can also visit the Ardnamurchan Distillery.

Satisfied with the walks and the many impressions of the landscape of the Scottish islands, we returned to our anchorage in Oban harbour. Everyone was still so impressed by the trip that no one disembarked to return to the civilised world. In the evening the experiences were shared over a glass, coffee or tea.

So you see. Every trip is different. Even if you have a plan for a trip, the wind will change it. But not to worry. As we have seen, every Scottish island is different and there is always something new to discover. The landscape, the history, the whisky... And that's what makes the Thalassa walks so challenging. For me as a guide to plan and for the guests to process the impressions the area offers. In the end, only the departure and arrival are fixed. The rest is determined by the wind and tides.

Practical tips for hikers:

What kind of shoes do you wear?

Class A/B and B walking shoes are very suitable for walking in the Scottish islands. These shoes have a slightly higher upper than class A, which gives more protection on wet surfaces.
Make sure you have a good sole to give you support on uneven ground.
Type A walking boots will also do the job, but you will need to be careful when crossing streams and brooks hidden in the countryside

What clothes do you take?

Life on board and walking require special attention to clothing. Sailing can be chilly, so many layers will keep you warm and comfortable. Also make sure you bring a warm hat and a good scarf.
Good rainwear is a must in Scotland. But don't be surprised if you find you've brought it all in vain.
If you are walking, make sure you have sportswear that dries quickly. Again, layers are important. The wind can be a nasty distraction from your comfort. If possible, avoid wearing cotton next to your skin so that moisture can be wicked away.
Also make sure you have enough good walking socks.

In 2025 Gerard Spaans will be back on board to lead a wonderful walking tour in Scotland. If you would like to know more about this trip, please visit our website: Hiking/ Hebrides journey Ullapool - Scrabster: September 13 - 20, 2025

The three-masted barquentine Thalassa is an exceptionally strong, seaworthy ship. With her 16 sails she is an impressive sight on the horizon. Sailing on the Thalassa means relaxation, luxury and adventure, all at the same time. An experienced crew, an excellently equipped accommodation and the culinary surprises served on board, guarantee you a wonderful trip. During her sailing trips Thalassa can receive 30 persons. NOTE: For all our trips and their programs the wind and weather conditions apply!

Tall Ship Thalassa is an exceptionally comfortable ship, ideal for receptions and parties on board thanks to the spacious saloon and the covered afterdeck. The ship offers space for 140 guests

Information and bookings general

More information about this and other sailing trips can be found on our website.
If you have any other questions, we are of course happy to answer them personally. You can reach us by e-mail: Brigitte@tallshipthalassa.nl or by phone: +31 - (6)8 2446488